Do indie devs enjoy programming less than software engineers do?
Maybe, for indie devs, programming is just a means to achieve their creative vision?
You probably can't generalize. I'm a software engineer for whom programming is just a means to achieve my vision of paying rent.
Indie devs come from all kinds of backgrounds, so it'll very much depend whether they're a programmer who's managed to do enough art and writing to get by, or an artist who's hacked together just about as much as necessary to make their game work in the easiest tool they could get their hands on, or someone in between.