The Wifi repeater[0] I had is too unreliable to deliver anything for very long. The Powerline[1] adapter works for maybe a hot minute and then loses the pairing over the power socket, and now I'm seeing the same with MoCA[2] over coaxial (yes I have PoE filters).
Are there any other alternatives?
0: https://fritzshop.nl/2222-large_default/fritzwlan-310-wifi-repeater.jpg 1: https://www.digitalred.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/71oxmxhuI4L._SL1500_.jpg 2: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41UgxVVrRBL.jpg
If cat cable is too thick, there's also the possibility to run SFP fiber instead.
You did not say whether or not you are using the RG6 elsewhere in the house for TV. (I am.) Your RG6 cables probably terminate into a distribution transformer (splitter). I solved the interference problem by installing those filters between the antenna/CATV inputs and the distribution transformer. (If you have a cable modem fed by the same RG6 plant, you CANNOT use the RG6 plant for in-house MOCA.)
Here are some things to check: 1) Make sure you're using RG6 cable everywhere and that there is no RG59 cable being used anywhere.
2) Make sure all the F connectors on your RG6 drops are good. F connectors are generally poor and have a lot of insertion loss. You may need to scrape/sand the center conductor to ensure a good connection because it is sometimes coated/plated with some anti-corrosive. 3) Depending on the brand of MOCA adapter, you may be able to access the (undocumented) user interface by browsing to: http://192.168.1.3
Note that you'll need to change/add the 192.168.1.0/24 subnet to your LAN, and pick a non-conflicting IP address on that subnet in order to connect. Also, all the MOCA adapters have the same fixed IP address, so to connect to each one, you'll need to be on the Ethernet LAN side of the one you wish to communicate with. Once connected, you can see diagnostics with signal levels and a PSD graph that will show you if the frequency response of your RG6 cabling is poor. There may be some settings on the page that will allow you to change the "channel" numbers being used in your MOCA network. The menu on my (ZYXEL) MOCA adapters has a left pane with the following (JavaScript) links:
Device Info
Node Info
Statistics
Configuration
SW Update
The information page for each link loads in the frame to the right of the left pane.
Other than that, you could go for more serious p2p wireless or string a CAT-5/6 cable.
What got me started: https://michael.stapelberg.ch/posts/2021-05-16-home-network-...
(Michael, if you are out there, I owe you many beers)
I would imagine a single room is a bit cheaper.
MoCA, I'm only using for the TiVos, though I've tapped into it for speed testing when I first installed it and it was "perfectly more than adequate" with no real tuning other installing the MoCA point of entry filter [singular, not plural] (in my case a PCT-VC-F18a) and hooking everything up.
I'm on US powerline, but in case it helps, I'm using the "devolo Magic 2 WiFi next starter kit" for powerline and, once again, that also "just worked".
0 - https://www.pctinternational.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/...
1. replace your ethernet cable to moca adapter. even cable that seemingly ok it still can be faulty. friend of mine had recently similar problem with cable. he replaced $300 worth of equipment before he replaced cable
2. if coax going through splitter and splitter is old, it may cause issues (moca using higher frequency ranges). get new splitter that is moca compatible from reputable company. for example https://a.co/d/0SIcvRP . don't use splitter with more ports than you need and all unused coax connectors should have terminator on them
3. get some coax signal meter to make sure that you have no problems with cable/connectors. in case that wiring is old (>10-15 years), get new connectors and recrimp coax. also replace wallplate couplers (neighbor of mine had problem with moca month ago. i traced it down to bad wallplate couplers. ).
moca adapters can be accessed via browser to see their internal state/quality/etc. take a look at it as well
https://www.kemo-electronic.de/en/House/Home/M091N-Phase-Cou...
Why cat6? Because it is hardly more expensive than cat5 and more future proof. If you don't care about the latter and have some cat5 lying around, by all means use it but if you have to buy the stuff anyway you may as well choose the 'better' option.
I use an 100ft cable to go from living room to basement, and have an mesh AP for each. The Eero devices are relatively affordable compared to Ubiquiti for how powerful they are, if you want a seamless experience using multiple WiFi APs.
[1]: https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/d...
I'm not using ethernet beyond the switch room, I threw money at the problem and got a 3 pack of those wi-fi 6 Nest units which form a mesh network. Works fine, covers the house and front and back yards. Costco is selling a 4 pack of those for $450 which is even better. https://www.costco.com/google-nest-wifi-pro,-wi-fi-6e,-4-pac...
It'd be way cheaper to drill some holes and run ethernet in your situation though.
https://www.duckware.com/tech/wifi-in-the-us.html#improvewif...
Disconnect any extraneous splitters or lines. If the coaxial cable is damaged, has inferior push on connectors, or is RG59 there's a higher risk of issues. GoCoax brand is great so it's probably not a dud unit.
https://www.duckware.com/tech/solving-intermittent-cable-mod...
You have the PoE filter (no “S”, there’s should only be one) installed on the entry point only. Since you said “filterS” it implies you have multiple throughout the network. If so, that’s the cause of your problem as those are designed to prevent MoCa signals from passing through.
Next would be the main splitter. You really should have only one in the house, and it should be good quality and support up to 2500MHz. Bamf makes good ones. It should only have enough taps as cables you need to connect (don’t get a 7-way splitter if you only have 3 cables).
For any unused splitter ports, make sure they are terminated.
Check the connectors on each end of the cables and replace any that are loose or flimsy.
MoCa really does work very well, so I suggest you figure out what the issue is instead of looking for something else. The only thing I can think of as a showstopper is if they nailed through (or stapled too tight) when installing the wires in the walls. That would compromise the cable and there’s not much that will be able to handle that.
We also provide a mesh networking solution from plume and it uses a 5ghz backhaul and does a great job. I would recommend it.
Even if you can’t direct-connect to the router, perhaps you can move the router a few rooms closer.
Use a controller that allows for multiple wired base stations.
If you can’t go through a wall with Cat6 you can at least get right up to it and plop a base station right there.
I use Unify gear. The unify dream router and a wired base station near where I want coverage. I have two base stations. My service works great in a big ranch style house (never a single problem). Keep in mind that these routers cast a mushroom shaped beam so place them high and pointed where you want signal.
[0] https://www.revk.uk/2017/12/its-official-adsl-works-over-wet...
What’s in the way? Concrete, bricks maybe?
Because modern mesh networks are very reliable.
To troubleshoot it all, I’d get a long run of loose laid Ethernet cable and demonstrate that I can maintain a stable connection to two known good switches on either end.
I’ve been had issues using Powerline, but as others have said, there are perhaps other issues that I’d not been aware of before!
We don’t have MOCA over here in Australia as Coax I. The house isn’t really a thing here!
Most of this is done on the top of the walls next to the ceiling. I simply screwed in cup hooks every so often and drape the cable over them. Here's a short section to show what that looks like [1]. The other cable in that is a speaker cable heading to my right rear surround sound speaker.
If aesthetics is a concern some sort of conduit or cable tray could be put up there to hide the cable, and probably even be made to look like it is decorative.
2. You might also consider a partial wired solution. See if there is some place you could move your wireless router to that would give a stable connection in your work room and still give stable connections in the other rooms you use wireless from.
Often a poor wireless connection in one room is due to something between that room and wireless router and moving the router over a room or two might fix it.
I have used the TP-Links that you had in your pic (or a variation of that model) but I've found that they and all others tend to only last a year before their quality severely degrades. My guess is that extensive usage everyday causes them to endure multiple heat cycles and they just start to degrade in quality of transmission after too many of these cycles.
Despite this being solid state equipment, I swear there must be some component in there that degrades with extensive usage because this phenomenon happened with all powerline devices I've owned.
Furthermore, even before they start to degrade I would lose signal about once ever 2-3 hrs and it would require unplugging one side of the connection and replugging it in.
Over the course of 3 years this also wore out my power outlet(it became much looser)
Like I said, I tried various brands/models. This was because I would replace them once a year. The best experience I had was with TP-Link AV2000 (it had the longest time between disconnects and the best bandwidth)
Before that I used TP-LINK AV500 which I would say is average quality. It was good for the first year but then started to really degrade.
Before this I used Netgear Powerline 500. It was the worst of the bunch, requiring more frequent resets and it too degraded over time as well. I typically find Netgear business class equipment to be great but unfortunately their powerline offerings were a letdown. I dont know if they have improved on this.
Powerline is a fascinating technology and I'm thankful it existed as it got me through 3 years going from poor wifi to finally being able to get a ethernet cable going through the wall.
You can get thin or flat cables that you can just push between the carpet and baseboard. If you have hard floors, you can get a trim crowbar and pull the baseboards off. As long as you are careful, when you replace them and add a bit of caulk, it will look like new. Going around door frames is usually not so difficult: the worst case is that you would need to remove the baseboard from both sides and drill through the floor plate, which will also be invisible after you've finished.
If you have a run that would have to go under carpet, you can use an undercarpet fish tape and some very thick sewing needles to raise the carpet and underpad at any place it is stuck.
If you would have to go through a wall, often there is a cable box in the same section of the wall on both sides. That would let you string a cable between the boxes. In some cases you can add a box without it being obvious. Most corporate landlords aren't going to remember if the 11th layout in their building has an ethernet box in that location.
https://www.amazon.com/LABOR-SAVING-DEVICES-85-125-Undercarp...
https://www.netsys-direct.com/en-gb/products/kit-managed-g-f...
Works well for me (600mbit down / 400mbit up, over a single pair of cat 3)
Or you can spend another Hundred hours in search of a subpar solution. How much money has been wasted on doing that? Stop the insanity!