The most "free speech" lip service sites (parler) ended up moving to "free speech" platforms for which their digital neighbors were quite literally stormfront.
Do you have real examples of western governments taking down independent journalists using free speech to speak truth to power? Because that would do a lot to win me over.
Are you looking for privacy or are you looking for non take-down-ability or are you looking to promote a message?
The government barely has to "silence" people because the governments work on behalf of money, for which media is also beholden. I think it's hard to get a message out without the support of billionaire owned media enterprises.
There was this discussion... some suggestion that iceland is one of the freer ones, and looking at wikipedia it seems some unpalatable websites were hosted there, which imo is the best way to see if a registrar is not going the take your stuff down.
Njalla is good as long as your site is not openly racist and does not cater to racists. If I trust anyone to protect people from western overreach, it's the Pirate Bay founders.
EasyDNS has a history of being decent but has had an openly right wing slant for the last few years, which could translate into how they handle complaints for domains owned by the "other side". They successfully fought against British takedown requests and protected their client's info. I do not know if they would be legally empowered to fight against a US request.
NearlyFreeSpeech has hosted many controversial domains in the past and I've never seen them take one down, unless it was breaking the law. But they have posts about Jan 6th that indicate they will co-operate with law enforcmement if asked. Does this translate to legal but unwanted speech? I don't know.