I expected the front-line ICs to be united against middle-manager politics, but I found the opposite. Middle management was generally professional and transparent, while the toxic politics came from younger ICs looking to claw their way up the ladder.
I think it's a side effect of selectively hiring people who have been high achievers all of their lives. Drop them into a company where their intelligence is just average and many people resort to politics to get a leg up. Not everyone was like this, of course, but I've never worked with so many people rushing to throw their coworkers under the bus if they thought it might help get them closer to their next promotion.
It has also given me a new appreciation of why startups can be so efficient. The joke that every gmail redesign made the product worse but had to be done because someone needed to get promoted is no joke. When politics falls away and everyone's incentive is to become profitable or to build a good product the result can be magical.
Probably most surprising was that there were a substantial number of people that (though very sharp) had pretty severe personality problems. The challenges and politics of dealing with these people seemed to dominate the merely technical challenges.
As a corollary, though their hiring filters were quite tight, these shops seemed to be only somewhat more productive than what you might see in a random US corporation. I would have thought it would be a day and night difference, but it wasn't.
A third minor surprise: Sometimes these companies spend huge on salaries but don't provide very good working conditions (office, desk size, quiet, decent bathrooms, etc.).